NEW YORK FASHION WEEK FOCUSES ON AESTHETIC PRECONCEPTIONS AND AVANT-GARDE UPCYCLING
This season, everything suggests that New York is still in full possession of its power as a trend-setter. Its revival comes from emerging creators, underground and confirmed, focusing on diversity in all its forms, maximum inclusivity, life and its daily IRL (in real life), on eco-responsible and sustainable commitments, on the catwalks where “women” and “men” strut, or by making their collections veritable manifestos.
We will remember the silhouette of a powerful woman, formal but reassuring tailoring, with an accumulation of protective volumes, coats, turtlenecks and noble materials, in black, navy and camel tones, as with Philip Lim or Dereck Lam. We will recall the return of Helmut Lang's dark tailoring, strict and unstructured, or the asymmetries of Proenza Schouler, both frank and surprising. Other designers reflect a desire for upcycling, mixing casual-street and flashy kitsch or grunge and flashy mixes as seen with Creatures of the Wind and Collina Strada. While a desire for protection continues with a wardrobe that’s casual and cozy, enveloping at Eckaus Latta, or monastic and pure at The Row, in thick cashmere, capes and ponchos that accompany the body.
LONDON FASION WEEK ADDS A TWIST TO BRIT'COUTURE AND SOFT TAILORING
Despite the diversity, most designers have drawn on references to Brit'culture, but with a modern twist and contrasting associations. Throughout the collections, we came across women with soft tailoring, others inspired by the 80's-90's festive cute-couture. By proposing “upgraded” heritage, designers have been able to respond to the plurality of styles, oscillating between the formal casual of a woman with refined but sensual classicism and casual-street, the remix of youth committed to improving the world.
We will remember collections that associate new maturity and multifaceted modernity, mixing formal, sensual, soft and tailoring, like with JW Anderson, Port 1961 or Rejina. Victoria Beckham and Pringle of Scotland reconcile masculine, feminine and functionality, with a twist of asymmetry and controlled glamor. In another genre, House of Holland, Richard Malone or Preen promote inclusive fashion, with patchworks of materials and eclectic prints that are representative of an approach of recycling. Ricardo Tisci for Burberry Him, intertwines 90's streetwear, casual, tailoring and neo-bourgeoisie. The Victorian touch endures in a “cute” version, like with Christopher Kane, whose fetishist and glitter collection reveals a casual and modern femininity.
MILAN FASHION WEEK TAKES ON SENSUAL RIGOR AND DARK ROMANTICISM
Milan Fashion Week, despite collections with attire in optimistic and dissonant color schemes, hides a real dark trend. Designers have played the card of duality with silhouettes with a strong aesthetic, sometimes dark and fetishist, modern warrior or androgynous-couture, without losing sight of their dream vision of a woman with soft and sensual minimalism. Designers seem to want to reinvent a wardrobe with strong messages, distinctive and inclusive, timeless and sustainable.
We will remember the significance of mixed collections and the vision of a femininity that’s hybridized, powerful and perplexing, as with Bottega Veneta, whose futuristic warrior borrows from the padding of minimalist armor and bikers. Others like Prada deconstruct the clichés of the women's wardrobe to celebrate a brutal romanticism. At Marni, the romantico-gothic references create a sexy look, almost S&M, or more heroine of Film Noir at N21 or even retro-fetishist and gothico-rave at Gucci. The ultra-graphic looks pay nostalgic homage to the extravagance of big houses like Versace 80's and 90's, version 2019. Finally, the answer to the pragmatism of tailoring pieces is nonchalant elegance, giving prominence to camel, caramel, beige, gray... seen at Agnona, Jil Sander, Tod's, or Max Mara, which stands out for its surprisingly rich colors.
PARIS FASHION WEEK REINVENTS THE MYTH OF FEMINITY
Paris Fashion Week electrifies fashion with its silhouettes that are, in a pinch, flamboyant, with sharp shoulders, supposedly subversive. Anchored in the period, letting go of the armor of streetwear to don that of an after-apocalypse warrior, as realistic as it is swift in leaving room for dreams, lightness and poetry. It is almost with unanimity that designers have drawn from the archives of large fashion houses to show how much the references of the past are echoed in the modernity of the present, of the future...
We will remember the bourgeois silhouettes that took everyone by surprise. Hedi Slimane invented a sexy 70's rebel-bourgeois for Celine, in culottes, blazer and laundress blouse. For Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia renewed the volumes inherited from streetwear to design impeccable black suits. Saint Laurent has returned to the sexy-androgynous tuxedo “à la Française” and the opulence of a conquering femininity. To escape from everyday life, designers like Jacquemus proposed feminine, unpretentious, romantic, sensual and comfortable collections, livened up by splashes of color. At Chloé, the adventurer continues to explore the 70's in bell-bottom jeans and toile de Jouy prints…