Between solar lightness and discreet sensuality, the summer of 2020 looms ahead with our theme “Fulfillment”.
An atmosphere that, in light of the Spring-Summer 2019 fashion shows, begins to lay the foundations of a new fashion trend, more timeless, always feminine and touched by sublime simplicity.
Return to the highlights of this Fashion Week.
Terracotta’s, bright oranges, radiant ochres, powerful yellows. On the runways, there are ranges that reflect a desire for summer colors, evoking skin tanned by the sun, reflections of twilight on dry rocks, or the pigments of arid and exotic lands.
At Jacquemus, the language is striking and obvious. In the tradition of his Fall-Winter 2018 collection inspired by the Souk of Marrakech, this time Simon Porte-Jacquemus explores the unbridled femininity of the Italian Riviera, incorporating what is now his signature:simple and sensual designs enhanced with solar touches for that healthy look.
Same feeling at Altuzarra. Recently arrived in Paris to present her Spring-Summer collection, the designer is gradually leaving her New York aesthetic to draw inspiration spanning from the Côte d'Azur to the Balearic Islands. Thus, we find hues reminiscent of both the arid landscapes and the particular fauna of the Mediterranean islands: tanned orange, solar camels and floral yellows.
The London brand Rejina Pyo takes us into a more acidic and offbeat aesthetic, still expressing, however, the need for light and warmth in the heart of summer. In a predominantly bucolic collection, we find more earthy hues, close to ochres, stirred by more raucous colors. A definitively London view in the way of modernizing and reinterpreting colors considered to be timeless.
A palette of shades that has been expressed globally, from Paris to New York, reflecting a real need for light and warmth, to exalt the vivacity of each person.
Fulfillment is not only a story of colors, on the contrary, this new, more frugal state of mind does not prevent a certain aesthetic richness rooted in ancient and often Mediterranean expressions, where craftsmanship has become a way of life.
A way of life translated by a certain view of sensuality, more discreet, delicate and spontaneous.
This season, designers have been able to borrow this trend by reinventing their wardrobes and the wearing of the garment itself, exploring new designs.
Initiated by new designers (Jacquemus, Mariam Nassir Zadeh, Christophe Lemaire ...) advocating simpler, more sustainable fashion, not trendy and playing with the codes of femininity by making it less first degree, it has found echo in large houses and with young designers looking for something new and fresh.
At Alberta Ferretti the change is profound. Accustomed to effective collections inspired by a hippie-Italian wardrobe and often very ready-to-wear, this season we sense a desire to tap into more ancient imagination, less romantic but still inspired by the Amalfi region in Italy. And to add a twist, a duality between masculinity and extreme sensuality. A soft result, with simple and desirable designs that showcase ultra-local craftsmanship.
Another major style change, Chloe. This season, its artistic director, Natacha Ramsay-Levy, leads us into a nomadic world inspired by the hippies of Ibiza. Thus, she explores the principles of the brand 100%: freedom, lightness and femininity. A motto that fits in with the philosophy of the Fulfillment theme. Silk, bohemian prints, stones with beneficial virtues, the collection is a reflection of serenity and a way of life far from the urban beat. Sensuality meets Boho mysticism for an airy and spiritual result.
It’s in his sportswear-inspired wardrobe that Philip Lim integrates his vision of wholeness. This season, he proposes a wardrobe using more “vagabond” materials and cuts that reveal, by superposition or transparency, the female body. A collection cleverly made up of technical as well as more traditional pieces, offering a more innovative view of bohemian sensuality.
The expression of the chaste, adventurous and nomadic woman takes on a more conceptual and minimalist dimension at Jil Sander. The brand of the German designer offers sets of overlays and textures in completely unstructured forms reminiscent of Japanese construction of the Meiji era. Historical inspiration coupled with an architectural and ultramodern universe that proves that the two universes can cohabit in harmony.
This shift by designers to a softer, more effective and simplified universe reflects the need to get out of the mad rush of the seasonal collections by proposing more timeless, lasting designs and colors that will resist the effects of fashion.
A return to essentials that avoids the pitfall of the ultra-basic by going towards more sensuality and sophistication, playing with the codes of a new femininity. A trend that will continue to resonate as the seasons go by.